There’s a new diamond trend in the engagement ring world, and it’s thanks to Travis Kelce and Taylor Swift. Their engagement on Aug. 26 has brought the “old mine cut” back into the spotlight.
The Kansas City Chiefs star worked with designer and Artifex Fine Jewelry founder Kindred Lubeck to create a custom ring featuring an old mine brilliant cut diamond. Within a day of the announcement, the stone became one of the most talked-about gems online.
The couple and Lubeck haven’t confirmed all the details yet, but experts and jewelers are weighing in on why this antique style is such a perfect fit.
According to Tom Moses, executive vice president and chief laboratory and research officer at the Gemological Institute of America, old mine cut diamonds date back to the 1800s, “when each diamond had to be shaped entirely by hand.” While it isn’t clear when Swift’s stone was sourced, Moses explains that “original stones from this era are extremely rare” because many were later recut as new technology emerged. A “well-preserved original,” he adds, is highly prized by collectors.
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Fine jewelry brand Vrai also describes the old mine cut as a “historic diamond,” popular from the early 18th to late 19th centuries, spanning the British Georgian and Victorian eras.
The cut itself is distinctive because of its handmade quality. Vrai notes that “no two old mine cut diamonds are alike,” since cutters in the past followed the natural form of the stone. This often created slight asymmetry, but it also gave each diamond a unique personality.
Even so, there are signature traits that make the old mine cut recognizable: a square shape with rounded corners, 58 facets, a smaller top (table), and a larger cutlet at the bottom.
The glow of these diamonds is another defining feature. “Antique diamonds are crafted to catch the glow of candlelight,” says Marrow Fine founder and jewelry designer Jillian Sassone.
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Neil Dutta, managing director of Angelic Diamonds, notes that the warm yellow gold setting Kelce chose enhances the ring’s romantic and timeless look.
Beyond beauty, experts point out that old mine cut diamonds are a sustainable choice. Since these stones have been in circulation for generations, they offer an eco-friendly alternative to newly mined gems. And with the rise of lab-grown diamonds, many jewelers say customers now have more options than ever to replicate the old mine cut style.
As for value, prices vary widely depending on carat size and custom design. George Khalife, known as George the Jeweler, estimates Swift’s ring could be worth $3.5 to $5 million, based largely on a possible 20-carat weight. Meanwhile, Olivia Landau, founder of The Clear Cut, suggests the price could fall between $40,000 and $100,000. Either way, the personal touches Kelce added make the ring truly priceless.